Five noises you shouldn't drive on
Our technicians hear the same handful of sounds right before an inexpensive repair turns into an expensive one. If your vehicle is making any of these, get it looked at this week.
1. A grinding sound when braking
Grinding usually means the pad material is gone and the backing plate is cutting into the rotor. Caught at the squeal stage it's a pad replacement; caught at the grind stage it's pads, rotors, and sometimes a caliper.
2. A rhythmic hum that rises with speed
A hum or growl that changes when you change lanes is almost always a wheel bearing. Bearings do not heal; they seize, and a seized bearing can take the hub and the ABS sensor with it.
3. Ticking from the top of the engine
A light tick at idle can be normal valvetrain noise, but a tick that grows with RPM often means low oil pressure or a failing lifter. Check the oil level immediately and stop driving if it's low.
4. A whine that follows engine speed in neutral
This points at an accessory — power steering pump, alternator bearing, or idler pulley. Cheap parts, but a failed pulley can throw the belt and leave you without steering assist or charging.
5. Clunking over bumps
Sway bar links and control arm bushings are the usual suspects, and they're inexpensive. Ignore them and the loose joint wears the tire, the strut, and eventually the steering rack.